Eminonu is where Istanbul gets on the water. Ferries leave from here for Kadikoy, Uskudar, the Princes’ Islands and up the Bosphorus, and they are ordinary public transport rather than tourist boats — which is exactly why they are worth taking.

The crossing to Kadikoy costs the same as a metro ride and lasts twenty minutes. Tea is sold on deck in tulip glasses, gulls follow the stern the whole way, and the view back at the old city silhouette is the one most people remember from Istanbul.
Use an Istanbulkart at the turnstiles; timetables are posted at each pier. From Hotel Sultania it is a walk of about ten minutes downhill, past the Spice Bazaar.